A few months ago Midwest Supplies Homebrew & Winemaking
contacted us asking if we would like to review one of their recipe kits. As all
of us are homebrewers it was a natural fit and I was selected to be the lucky
brewer/reviewer. They told me to go ahead and pick any of their kits, all-grain
or extract. This was harder to do than you might imagine. There are 118 extract
kits and 88 different all-grain kits to choose from! They’ve got anything from
light lagers to specialty beers. The kit I selected is the Schwarzwald Black Lager which is meant to be a schwarzbier. I was on the tail end of a run of
lagers I was making over the winter and I was already planning on making a
schwarzbier so this fit in perfectly with my plans.
I’m a relatively experienced homebrewer. I’ve been doing
this for something like 5 years and have progressed to the point where I use a
temperature controlled and automated brewstand capable of brewing up to 15
gallons of beer at a time, so I am probably not exactly the target customer for
Midwest Supplies when it comes to selling homebrewing kits. That’s not to say
that kits are beneath me nor are they, by definition, inferior to putting
together your own recipe. They do have their limitations, however. Probably the
number one limitation, in my opinion is that they are designed around someone
else’s system with a different efficiency and usually a different final volume
than me. This means that even when using a kit, I still have to make some
calculations and adjustments which takes away some of the convenience of using
a pre-packaged kit. It would be awesome if in the ordering process, one could
specify an expected efficiency and post-boil volume which would then scale the
ingredients to match your particular system! Whatchya think Midwest Supplies?
Great idea, no?
Anyways, upon receiving the kit, I noticed right off that
everything seemed very well packaged and the included instructions are very
clear and easy to follow, guiding you from receiving the yeast to bottling the
final beer with instructions for each major step along the way. The
instructions are pretty basic, however, and somewhat old school (especially in
the fermentation section), so homebrewers who are more experienced will
probably want to look past them and use the standard procedures that they’ve
already developed for themselves.
The malt comes all pre-mixed in one bag which I really
appreciated as it makes it nice and easy to just dump the bag of malt into my
mill (Midwest Supplies will also mill your malt for you at no extra charge if
you don’t own a mill) and be off and brewing. Of course, while it is super
convenient to have everything all in one bag, I can’t help but wonder how I
would know if I got the right malts in the correct quantities. Mistakes happen
to the best of us and it’d be nice to be able to review the malt bill before
mixing the malt together. This is a very minor quibble though, and really
probably only matters to paranoid brewers like myself.
Now, this recipe is different than what I would have put
together for a schwarzbier. I have not had the opportunity to try very many of
these black lagers but I tend to think of a schwarzbier as a black German pilsner;
relatively bitter and hoppy with a clean lager fermentation character and some
low roast notes from the use of darker malts. In a beer like this I would
generally use a debittered black malt like Carafa Special II to get color
without a lot of roasty flavors. And it seems that the folks at Midwest
Supplies agree with me because there are 6 ounces of Carafa Special II in the
recipe. However, there is also 4 ounces of Sinamar color extract which struck
me as odd. Why not simply use more Carafa? Possibly for fear of too much flavor
contribution I suppose. One other thing
I would consider odd is that the “flavor” hops in this kit are Fuggle, an
English variety. I don’t usually think of using English hops in a German beer.
But no matter, it’s the taste of the final beer that counts, not the specific
ingredients used to get there right?
The brewday went off without a hitch. I hit my original
gravity of about 1.048 pretty much spot on. It turns out that my greater
post-boil wort volume (6 gallons instead of 5) was perfectly offset by my
higher efficiency. That worked out well! Fermentation also proceeded as
expected and after a few weeks I had a final gravity of about 1.014. I cold
crashed the beer for several days and then kegged and carbonated it.
The beer has been conditioning for a few weeks now. It’s
very clean and smooth. It’s balanced more towards the malt side with the hops
playing only a minor supporting role but it’s not sweet. At first, there was a
hint of roast, but that seems to have dropped out with carbonation and time
though there is certainly dark malt flavor, just not roast. With only 2 ounces
of roasted barley, this is not surprising to me. It has a medium to full body
and drinks easy. All in all I would say it is a good beer. If I were to brew it
again I would up the bittering by about 10 IBUs and would add some late hopping
for a more noticeable hop aroma and flavor. I would also ditch the Sinamar and
use more Carafa to get the color back though I might use Carafa Special III
rather than II because I tend to perceive a non-roasty coffee flavor from that
malt that I think would work really well in a schwarzbier.
I had a good experience with this kit, and while, I’m not
sure I would buy this particular kit again, I would not hesitate to browse
through the rest of Midwest Supplies’ inventory and try another one someday. I
would certainly not hesitate to recommend their kits to a new brewer as they
have a great selection and the instructions are clear and not quite as daunting
as they could be.
For a more experienced brewer who is looking to make the
best beer they can, I would also say that I could recommend one of Midwest
Supplies’ kits, but with a couple caveats. The first being that while the
instructions don’t say to make a starter or pitch more than one pack of yeast,
you really do need to have a large quantity of yeast for fermenting a lager.
One sachet of dry yeast sprinkled on top is not going make the best beer
possible. I was able to use yeast from a batch of a Munich Dunkel that had
recently finished fermenting otherwise I would have probably done a multi-step
starter to have a large quantity of healthy, active yeast. The second caveat is in regards to the
fermentation instructions. The instructions advocate a “warm pitch” method
where yeast is pitched at something like 65°F and held there until fermentation
begins. The fermenting beer is then chilled to around 50°F until near the end
of fermentation when it is raised back up to the mid-60s for a diacetyl rest.
This had been the way lagers were fermented by homebrewers for a long time
before we learned the importance of making a starter and pitching the right
quantity of healthy, active yeast. It’s actually better to pitch the correct
quantity of yeast (there are great calculators out there, Jamil Zainasheff's being one of them) at your
target fermentation temperature or a bit lower and letting the fermentation run
its course. If you pitch enough good yeast, it can be possible that you may have no need for a
diacetyl rest, plus the cooler temperatures at pitching will inhibit the
unwanted fruity esters and initial diacetyl production from the start.
Thanks a lot to Midwest Supplies for sending me this kit and
allowing me to review it! I will enjoy this beer all the way up to the point
where the tap is making that depressing whooshing sound!
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